Avoid fertilizing southern warm-season grasses, Bermuda, St. Augustine, Centipedegrass, Bahia, and Zoysia, too late in the fall. The last time to fertilize warm-season grasses in fall is one month before dormancy or the average first-killing frost. Centipedegrass and Bahia grass prefer spring and summer feedings, and to help prevent winterkill, avoid fertilizing these varieties in the fall.
The grass is trying to go dormant, and when you fertilize, you’re encouraging it to grow, which may cause your lawn to be less hardy as it enters cold weather and more susceptible to winter injury. Visit our rate and schedule page for when and how much Milorganite to apply to your lawn, and check our blog, Seasonal Maintenance of Warm-Season (Southern) Grasses.

There are five things your lawn needs to thrive: sun, water, air, nutrients, and regular mowing. Fall is an excellent time to repair a stressed-out lawn, especially with the cooler temperatures and rainfall. Fertilize with Milorganite around Labor Day to help your lawn recover from the stress of summer! As the temperatures cool, your lawn focuses its energy on root growth and spreading outward instead of upward. Feeding your grass in early fall can help boost its density to better compete with weeds. Check out our blog for more tips on getting started repairing your lawn this fall.

You are not alone! Many of us are facing drought conditions this fall. Turf can go dormant for differing lengths of time depending on their genetics and overall health. Most established lawns can stay in a drought-dormant state for 3-4 weeks without dying. If the drought goes beyond four weeks, we recommend re-hydrating the lawn with deep, infrequent watering early in the day. Check out our blog for more tips on managing your lawn during fall drought.

Your Milorganite schedule will depend on whether you have warm or cool-season grass. Warm-season grasses should avoid fertilizing too late in the fall, one month before dormancy or the average first killing frost. If cool-season grass, wait to apply your last application mid to late Nov, just before the first deep freeze or snowfall in your area. This fertilizer application is known as a “dormant feeding,” or winter fertilization, which encourages healthier, greener lawns in the spring. Check out our blog for more information on the benefits of dormant fertilizer application.

Excellent work on your fall lawn care game! Immediately after aeration, your lawn is ripe for overseeding and fertilizing with Milorganite. The holes provide excellent soil exposure for grass seed and will deliver the fertilizer directly to the roots of your grass.  

Cool-season lawns should apply Milorganite again around mid to late November before the first significant freeze or snowfall. This "dormant" feeding helps your lawn build food reserves as winter approaches. The roots will be strong and healthy, and your lawn will be better prepared to green up quickly in spring.  View our blog to learn more about the many benefits of dormant lawn fertilization.

Fertilize warm-season grasses, like St Augustine, with Milorganite in the fall one month before dormancy or the average first-killing frost. Avoid fertilizing southern grasses too late in the fall. The grass is trying to go dormant, and when you fertilize, you’re encouraging it to grow. This may cause your lawn to be less hardy as it enters cold weather and more susceptible to winter injury. 
Applying too much nitrogen can actually weaken the grass. It encourages blade growth, but not root growth. The nutrients in Milorganite are released slowly over 8–10 weeks, so your lawn will get the nitrogen and greening iron it needs for at least two months. This provides even growth and better root development over a longer period of time instead of a sudden growth spurt and excessive grass clippings.

We recommend applying Milorganite fertilizer to your lawn 4 times per year or every 8-10 weeks during the grass growing season for best results. The timing when you fertilize will depend on whether you have northern (cool) season grass or southern (warm) season grass. Visit our Milorganite schedule and rate page for application timing this fall for your area.

We recommend applying Milorganite fertilizer to your lawn four times annually for the best results. However, Milorganite can be applied at any time during the growing season, but at most every 8-10 weeks. Please see our lawn application page for rates and a schedule for your region of the country and grass species.

Most of us have several different grass species in our lawns, which have different green color appearances. Check out our Northern, Cool-Season and Southern, Warm-Season Grasses page to help identify what grasses you have. 
Nutrients from fertilizing your lawn can help bring out the best green grass species it can be, but it will never change its basic color. Check out our blog What Color Should My Grass Be? to learn more about grass type color and characteristics.

Great question! Milorganite is different from most other fertilizers. Slow-release fertilizers derived from organic-based materials, such as Milorganite, help condition and feed the soil's ecosystem. Healthy soil grows healthy plants. Synthetic fertilizers quickly release nutrients to feed the plants and do very little to improve the soil's ecosystem. The quick hit of chemically based fertilizer may provide more immediate results than  Milorganite but for a shorter period of time. There's also a greater risk of nutrient run-off into area waterways when using synthetic fertilizers.

Another important characteristic of Milorganite that makes it different from chemical-based fertilizers is that it's less likely to burn. Milorganite is manufactured using organic materials. Using Milorganite, you won't accidentally end up with burned, brown rows in your lawn, as you might experience if you over-apply a synthetic fertilizer.

Milorganite also contains chelated iron, a form of iron that is more readily available to plants for a more extended period of time compared to iron sulfate because it doesn't need to remain on the surface of the grass blade. The iron in Milorganite helps maintain a greener lawn over a longer period of time and won't stain concrete or other surfaces.

For more information on using organic-based vs. synthetic and what makes Milorganite different from other fertilizers.

When you use Milorganite with other fertilizers, we caution you not to over-apply nitrogen fertilizer. Check the label of the product you applied for timing instructions. Typically, after 4-6 weeks, you can put down an application of Milorganite. Milorganite doesn't contain salts, so it will not burn your lawn, however, your lawn can only take up so many nutrients. Over-fertilization can result in nutrient runoff into our waterways and waste your money, product, and time. Over-fertilization can also stress out the turf plant and cause disease issues.

Apply Milorganite to your fruiting trees and shrubs when leaves lose their natural green color in fall. Apply one lb. of Milorganite fertilizer per tree per the tree's age. If your fruit tree is five years old, apply 5 lbs. of Milorganite. However, do not apply more than 16 lbs. per tree per year. Annual fertilizer applications are usually sufficient for good fruit yields. Pour into holes (1" wide x 12" deep) spaced 2 feet apart along the tree drip line. The second best option is to broadcast Milorganite in a circular band around the tree's drip line.

Yes! Golf courses across the USA continue to apply Milorganite to their courses. Learn more about Milorganite's history in the golf industry.

Southern Grasses, such as Zoysia, Bermuda, St. Augustine, Centipedegrass, and Bahia, should be fertilized with Milorganite four (4) times per year. 

Avoid fertilizing southern grasses too late in the fall. The grass is trying to go dormant, and when you fertilize, you’re encouraging it to grow. This may cause your lawn to be less hardy as it enters cold weather and more susceptible to winter injury. The last time to fertilize warm-season grasses in the fall is one month before dormancy or the average first-killing frost.

In spring, fertilize your warm-season grass with Milorganite after the last frost and once your lawn begins to grow green. A good rule of thumb is when daytime temperatures are consistently in the 70s which means soil temperatures are in the 60s. If you fertilize too early, the plant will focus on shoot growth, and you will sacrifice root growth. Deep roots help your lawn better withstand drought conditions during summer months. Check out our rates and schedule page for more information.

If your lawn spreader model is not on the back of the Milorganite bag or listed on our spreader setting page, please go to How to Calibrate a Spreader page for instructions and a video of six easy steps to ensure Milorganite you apply at the proper rate.

University research recommends the height of the Kentucky Bluegrass once it has been mowed at 2.5 to 3.5 inches.

Allowing the grass to stay tall encourages deeper root growth. Tall grass also helps keep weed seeds from germinating — especially those crabgrass seeds that need light to germinate. Keeping the lawn tall throughout the summer will keep the surface of the soil from drying out and reduce the need for watering. Visit our mowing page for more tips.

Mixing grass seed with Milorganite is an effective way to spread seed accurately. Mix 4 parts Milorganite with 1 part seed by weight. If you choose to mix Milorganite and seed, be careful to decrease future applications of Milorganite to prevent over-fertilization. Check out our seeding page for Milorganite Seed Mixing Chart rates.

Yellow grass blades can be a sign of low nutrients or too little water, too much water, blunt cutting blades on your mower, or a lawn disease. 

First, ensure you properly water your lawn; most lawns need 1" of water per week. Soak the lawn deeply instead of a quick mist. This watering strategy improves growth and conserves water compared to more frequent, light watering, which encourages shallow roots and makes lawns more susceptible to disease.

The next step is to sharpen your mower blades. Dull mower blades don't cut grass; they tear it. Frayed blades of grass dry out quickly and make your lawn more susceptible to damage from insects and diseases. Mower blades should be re-sharpened 2–3 times per year.

Check out our lawn disease page to help identify if a disease is present. Yellowing grass blades may be brown patch disease, which results in circular brown patches up to 3 feet in diameter that develop during hot, wet weather. The grass blades will be a dark yellow to light orange, and when you pull out a few blades, the basal area (bottom of the blade) will be black.

Your grassroots may be shallow or not growing properly due to improper watering, poor drainage, poor quality soil (compacted or clay soil, low organic matter), a lawn disease, or lawn pests like grubs. 

Start by reviewing your watering techniques and get a soil test done at your local university extension office. Check out our lawn disease page and our blog on How to Identify and Treat Your Lawn for Grubs.
Another way to encourage deep-rooted grass is with proper lawn fertilization. Milorganite's slow-release nitrogen, other nutrients, and 85% organic matter help feed the soil and promote deep roots. 

The good news is fall is the ideal time to seed or sod your lawn. In fall, daytime and soil temperatures are still warm, and cool nights help the grass establish. There's also less competition with weeds in the fall. The goal is for the new lawn to mature enough to survive winter. 
First, be cautious of tilling near your new sewer, water, or gas lines, you DO NOT want to till too deep. Call Diggers Hotline (800) 242-8511 to have the lines marked so you can avoid these areas with the tiller and grade these areas with a rake by hand.
Milorganite's agronomist shares her story of seeding her entire lawn in a four-part blog series and videos that will help guide you on the steps to take to grow a beautiful and healthy new lawn. Check out Part #1 - From Seed to Lawn.  

Milorganite recommends aerating your lawn using a core aerator. It removes cores of soil about the width of a dime and about 4” long—the deeper the core the better. Cores are pulled out about every 4-6”, depending on the aerator—the more holes, the better.
Core aerators are generally available for hourly rental at garden centers and big box stores, or you can call your local landscape company to do the job for you. You’ll probably want to go in on the rental with a neighbor or two to divide the cost and labor. Core aerators are very heavy and awkward and will require more muscle than one person can provide. You’ll also need a full-sized truck bed. Visit our lawn aeration blog for more information on aerating your lawn.

Urine spots are a common problem in lawns with dogs. The nitrogen and excess salts in the dog’s urine are usually to blame for the damage. Diluting the urine is one way to prevent the dead spots, but following around your neighborhood dogs with a watering can or hose is not very practical!

You can find products to neutralize urine, but most do not have good reviews for being very effective. 
We recommend speeding up the recovery by reseeding the brown spots. Remove all dead grass and thoroughly water the area to dilute any remaining lactic acid out of the soil. Prepare your soil by incorporating several inches of organic matter, such as compost into the top 6 inches of soil. Purchase a lawn patch kit or make your and gently work the seed and Milorganite mix into the soil 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch. Light (sandy) soils may only require watering for seed incorporation.

Keep the seeded area moist until the seeds emerge. The seedlings need frequent gentle watering until ½ to 1 inch tall. When conditions allow, reduce watering several times a week at a depth of 1 to 2 inches. Decrease the frequency and increase the depth of watering as seedlings mature. Check out our blog on repairing patches in your lawn. 

Check with your local landscape distributors for the Milorganite Professional 50 lb bag, our Greens Grade product with smaller granules. For the proper application, you will need to adjust your spreader settings.

Milorganite fertilizer NPK (nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium) has never been a 10-10-10 NPK; since our product is an organic-based fertilizer from recycled nutrients in the wastewater, we do not add nutrients like a synthetic fertilizer. Milorganite is a 6-4-0 NPK and available at your local garden centers in a 5 lb and 32 lb bag, but is most commonly available in the larger 32 lb bag. 

The significant increase in phosphorus in one year is dramatic; if you are using an at-home soil test, we recommend having a soil lab at a local university extension office run the numbers. 

We recommend also checking the soil pH; if it's high, it can sometimes keep the phosphorus bound in the soil. The makeup of every soil is different, and some soils can tie up phosphorus longer than others. 

If your phosphorus levels are high, use a phosphorus-free fertilizer and collect your grass clippings. Another approach is to use Milorganite as your spring fertilizer application when the lawn is setting down roots for the season and then use a phosphorus-free fertilizer for the remainder of the year.

We encourage our customers not to over-apply Milorganite. The salt-free formula won't burn your lawn; however, your lawn can only take up so many nutrients. Milorganite's application rates and schedule are based on university research, which studied the amount and frequency of nutrients needed for a healthy lawn. We caution that over-fertilization can result in nutrient runoff into waterways, creating environmental issues.

Potassium (potash) helps the grass build thicker cell walls, which strengthens the plant so it can withstand external stresses such as drought, heat, cold, and disease.
We recommend having a soil test taken to see if your lawn needs more potassium.  Typically, it’s a nutrient that we see sufficient amounts of in the soil, but a soil test is always best. You can get a soil test kit at our local garden store, online, and at your local Cooperative Extension Office.

Milorganite fertilizer is a byproduct of the Milwaukee Metropolitan Sewerage District’s water reclamation process: treating wastewater for safe a return to Lake Michigan. Toward the end of the process, the nutrient-rich solid material and the clarified water go their separate ways. With an additional kiln-drying process, the material becomes Milorganite. The clarified water is disinfected and returned to Lake Michigan. Therefore, we cannot take out any nutrients found in the wastewater that creates Milorganite. Check out our blog about how we make Milorganite.

Research conducted by the University of Florida compared the slow-release phosphorus found in Milorganite to fertilizers with other synthetic sources of phosphorus. It demonstrated that the insoluble, bound form of phosphorus in Milorganite, which is more readily available to plants,  is significantly less likely to leach. The phosphorus is released at a rate and amount plants can use rather than rapidly, which can contribute to nutrient runoff.

Opposite conditions encourage dollar spot to develop in the lawn: drought soils and prolonged wet foliage. Address both by watering deeply and infrequently early in the day to allow the leaf blades to dry off and not remain wet for long periods.
Fertilizing regularly with Milorganite will help your grass overcome this lawn disease. Mow unaffected areas first and diseased areas last to avoid infecting a healthy lawn. Collect and dispose of grass clippings in the garbage when the dollar spot lawn disease is present. To avoid spreading the fungus, after mowing, clean the mower blades by rinsing them with water and drying them with a cloth. For more tips on managing dollar spot and other lawn diseases, visit our lawn disease page.

Thanks for sharing the photo of your lawn, but it's hard to tell for sure by a picture. Check out our lawn disease page to help you identify the issue.

Large Patch might be the culprit caused by the pathogen Rhizoctonia solani, which is the same disease found in cool-season turf, especially turf-type tall fescue, called Brown Patch. This lawn fungus forms irregular ring shapes in the lawn, and where the disease is most active, the grass blades will be a dark yellow to light orange, and when you pull out a few blades, the basal area (bottom) will be black. Check out our blog, How to Manage Large Patch Lawn Disease, to learn more.

A common reason for brown spots in your lawn is drought, dog spots, or a disease. Lawn diseases occur when three factors are present: a plant that’s susceptible, a favorable environment, and the disease itself. The correct environment could be too much water or not enough, or too much rain or not enough, depending on the disease and the plant.
Our Common Lawn Diseases page has images to help you visually identify the disease you may be dealing with, as well as the type of grass affected, symptoms when you’ll typically see it, and how to manage it.
 

Three factors cause lawns to become diseased:
•    A disease-causing pathogen 
•    Susceptible grass species
•    A favorable environment for the pathogen
A lawn disease will blossom if all three criteria occur simultaneously for a time period the pathogen needs to settle in. If any of these three criteria isn’t present, your lawn should be disease-free.
 The first step we recommend is to identify the lawn fungus on your lawn. Take a close look at the fungus areas in the lawn, look for a pattern of the damage, and check the green grass blades on the edge of the fungus for more clues. Review our Seasonal Lawn Disease Guide to help narrow down the possibilities. 
Once you have gathered this information, visit our Lawn Disease page for more detailed information and photos to help diagnose and manage the disease.  
The turf diseases listed are rarely detrimental to your lawn, and fungicides generally aren’t needed for treatment. These diseases could harm the environment and simply be a waste of money. Proper lawn care is the best option for preventing and treating these common turf diseases.

It sounds like your lawn may have slime mold, a “primitive” saprophytic fungi that engulfs decaying organic matter, bacteria, and protozoa in the soil or thatch. Slime mold pustules typically disappear after 2 to 3 days; control practices are not needed. However, slime mold pustules can be removed if the growth is unsightly. Mowing or light raking is an effective means of destroying the crusty fruiting bodies of a slime mold. Washing the affected patches of turf with a hard stream of water can also break up the slime mold and restore the beauty of a lawn. Because slime molds may be more common on heavily thatched or poorly drained portions of a lawn, renovation of affected areas should reduce the incidence of disease. For more information: https://www.aces.edu/blog/topics/lawn-garden/slime-molds-on-home-lawns/ 

Necrotic ringspot (NRS) is a perennial disease of Kentucky bluegrass. NRS results in circular or doughnut-shaped patches of dead grass. A combination of good turf management practices and fungicide applications can suppress NRS. Check out the Colorado State University Extension website for advice on NRS disease management.

Yellow grass blades can be a sign of low nutrients or too little water, too much water, blunt cutting blades on your mower, or a lawn disease. 

First, ensure you properly water your lawn; most lawns need 1" of water per week. Soak the lawn deeply instead of a quick mist. This watering strategy improves growth and conserves water compared to more frequent, light watering, which encourages shallow roots and makes lawns more susceptible to disease.

The next step is to sharpen your mower blades. Dull mower blades don't cut grass; they tear it. Frayed blades of grass dry out quickly and make your lawn more susceptible to damage from insects and diseases. Mower blades should be re-sharpened 2–3 times per year.

Check out our lawn disease page to help identify if a disease is present. Yellowing grass blades may be brown patch disease, which results in circular brown patches up to 3 feet in diameter that develop during hot, wet weather. The grass blades will be a dark yellow to light orange, and when you pull out a few blades, the basal area (bottom of the blade) will be black.

The University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences shares that often alkaline soils occur in the home landscape as a result of calcium carbonate-rich building materials (i.e., concrete, stucco, etc.) that may have been left in the soil following construction. Soils that contain limestone, marl or seashells are also usually alkaline in nature.

There are a few measures that can be taken in order to combat high pH. Incorporating soil amendments containing organic material is the most common method implemented to reverse alkalinity. Peat or sphagnum peat moss is generally acidic and will lower pH better than other organic materials. Adding elemental sulfur is another common practice. A soil test will need to be performed often in order to add the correct amount of sulfur to reach an optimal pH level. Check with your local University Extension office for how to submit a soil test in your area.

We’re seeing a trend to introduce clover to lawns for a low-maintenance lawn that helps provide nitrogen to the grass. However, most homeowners continue to prefer the clover-free, weed-free lawn.

Clover (Trifolium) is a perennial, broadleaf weed common throughout the  USA. It has three characteristics: round leaflets on a long stalk and small, round, white, or pinkish/purplish flowers. It’s more resilient than other broadleaf weeds, drought-tolerant, and its low-growing habit evades mower blades.  

Remove the clover as soon as you see it. It can spread quickly by seed and creeping stems. If the amount of clover in your lawn is minimal,  it’s best to remove it by hand. Loosen the soil to make it easier to remove the entire clover root. If there’s more clover than is practical for hand removal, consider spot treating with an herbicide. If you decide to treat the entire lawn, a broadleaf herbicide application in the fall is very effective. Make sure the herbicide is safe to use on your variety/ies of grass. Otherwise, you may kill the grass along with the clover. Always follow manufacturer instructions and community regulations. For more information, check our blogs on managing clover in your lawn and for eco-friendly weed control tips.

Consider using a pre-emergent herbicide in spring to help prevent crabgrass, poa annua (annual bluegrass) and foxtail out of your yard. Allyn Hane, The Lawn Care Nut, shares his tips on what pre-emergent herbicide to buy (granular or liquid as well as active ingredient) and when to apply it.

Creeping Charlie, also known as ground ivy, violets, and plantains, is considered a "broadleaf weed," meaning it is a non-grassy weed with wide, flat leaves, making it distinct from the narrow blades of grass; it is particularly problematic in lawns due to its aggressive spreading nature and ability to form dense mats through creeping stems that root at the nodes. This weed usually gets its foothold in the shade and then spreads throughout the rest of the lawn.   

An eco-friendly weed control option is to take back those shady spots in your yard by growing more shade-tolerant grass like the cool-season fescue or warm-season St. Augustine grass. Mow high and fertilize less, only 1 to 2 pounds of nitrogen per growing season, than the sunny areas of your lawn. Or replace the lawn with shade-tolerant groundcovers. Adjust your overall care to reclaim and maintain the rest of the lawn. Check out our blog on eco-friendly weed control.

If Creeping Charlie has taken over large areas of your lawn, we recommend a targeted weed control approach with a broadleaf herbicide. Check out our blog more information on using broadleaf weed control.

Clover (Trifolium) is a perennial, broadleaf weed common throughout the  USA. It has three characteristics: round leaflets on a long stalk and small, round, white, or pinkish/purplish flowers. It’s more resilient than other broadleaf weeds, drought-tolerant, and its low-growing habit evades mower blades. It can quickly spread.

Remove the clover as soon as you see it. It can spread quickly by seed and creeping stems. If the amount of clover in your lawn is minimal,  it’s best to remove it by hand. Loosen the soil to make it easier to remove the entire clover root. If there’s more clover than is practical for hand removal, consider spot treating with an herbicide. If you decide to treat the entire lawn, a broadleaf herbicide application in the fall is very effective. Make sure the herbicide is safe to use on your variety/ies of grass. Otherwise, you may kill the grass along with the clover. Always follow manufacturer instructions and community regulations. Visit our blog more information on managing clover in your lawn.

If your lawn is more than 60 percent weeds or bare soil, starting over will provide the best long-term results. Use this opportunity to create a great foundation for growing a healthy lawn. You will need to kill any existing grass and weeds before you prepare the soil. Mix several inches of organic matter and Milorganite into the top 6 to 8 inches of soil before planting seeds or sod. Then water enough to encourage support seed germination or root development in the sod. For more details on starting a lawn from seed follow the journey of the Milorganite's agronomist.

If no more than 30 to 50% of your lawn is filled with weeds or damaged, renovation can help you boost its appearance without killing the grass and starting over. It will take time, water, and effort on your part, so like any other project, make a plan and schedule the work when it's best for the lawn and your schedule. Check out our blog on how to renovate your lawn.

Since plant growth is dependent on the weather, it is important to time your renovation based on the grass you are growing. Cool-season grasses like bluegrass, fescue, and perennial rye are best renovated in the fall when the soil is warm, and the temperatures are usually a bit cooler, perfect for seed sprouting. Renewing the lawn in spring is the second-best time, but the stress of hot, dry summers can make it more difficult for the grass to establish, and you will spend more time watering.

We hope you're feeling better this fall! It sounds like you have more weeds than you can comfortably remove by hand. Therefore, it may be time to spot-treat weeds using a broadleaf herbicide. Some herbicides are weed-specific, so it’s best to first identify the weeds in your lawn.

Spot-treating weeds with an herbicide is particularly effective in the fall. Like grass, weeds are storing nutrients for the winter ahead.  It’s actively taking up nutrients, which means the herbicide will be more readily taken up as well.

Use a broad-leaf herbicide and ensure it’s compatible with the turfgrass varieties in your lawn. Some broad-leaf herbicides kill some grass varieties. Don’t use a non-selective herbicide! It kills everything! When using any lawn care chemicals, please follow all label instructions carefully. For more tips to get your lawn back on track this fall, check out our blog.

A healthy, dense stand of grass is your best defense against weeds and is more resistant to insects and diseases. Weeds appear and spread when the growing conditions are better for them than the grass. Correct the problem and provide proper care to manage weeds and improve the health of your lawn. Killing the weeds without fixing the underlying cause is only a temporary solution. Unless the cause is eliminated, the weed problem will return. Removing weeds by hand is time-consuming but the most environmentally friendly way to manage weeds. Natural corn gluten can be used as pre-emergent in fall and spring to reduce the number of weed seeds sprouting in the grass. This, along with proper care, can greatly reduce the weed population in your lawn. Visit our blog for more eco-friendly weed control tips.

Allyn Hane, The Lawn Care Nut" shares tips for using pre-emergent herbicides in spring to help prevent weed problems in your lawn that primarily target crabgrass. For tips on using post-emergent (after they have already come up) weed control for broadleaf weeds.

Shawn Askew, PhD Associate Professor, Turf Weed Specialist Virginia Tech, recommends the best way to control bermudagrass is by raising the mowing height of cool-season grasses into the “jungle” range because bermudagrass can’t tolerate low light. Research has shown that tall fescue can completely kill bermudagrass at a mowing height of 4 inches without the use of herbicides. Your fescue will be so happy; it will give you a darker green color, more drought resistance,  more disease resistance, and, of course, a barrier against weeds. 

Tall fescue is a wide-bladed clump grass, commonly used in pastures. The textural difference between fescue and cool-season grasses in a lawn is evident because of its clumps. You can dig out the clumps, but ensure you remove all the roots. Then re-seed or re-sod after removal and apply Milorganite to help nurture the new seedlings or sod.

If you choose a chemical control method, spray fescue clumps with glyphosate when growing, which will also kill all turf species you spray, and you will need to re-seed or re-sod this area in your lawn. Check out the Colorado State's website for more information on managing tall fescue in your lawn.

According to a Penn State Extension publication: "Stiltgrass is an annual grass which germinates in the spring and grows slowly through the summer months. Its root system is shallow and weak. It tolerates full sun to heavy shade. Stiltgrass spreads through a high production of seeds and also by sprouting new shoots from the stems that come in contact with the ground. A single plant may produce between 100 and 1,000 seeds that can remain viable in the soil for at least three years. Stiltgrass thrives in areas subject to regular soil disturbances such as flooding, mowing, tilling, and high foot traffic. The small seeds may be carried by animal fur, water during heavy rains, contaminated hay, potted plants, or soil and mud stuck to footwear." The key to controlling stiltgrass is to prevent it from setting seed. Check out PennState Extension website for information on how to manage small and large infestations.

The Alabama Cooperative Extension System has excellent information on Controlling Fall Armyworms on Lawns and Turf to help you identify, manage, and chemical control options for army worms in your lawn. Good luck!